Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Unveiling of the Thangka


21st August 2006 - Drepung
We sat there like participants in some latter day re run of the Sermon on the Mount. It was just before dawn and in company with thousands of Tibetan pilgrims we had climbed in the dark silence up the holy mountain opposite Drepung Monastery in heavy rain to wittiness the annual unveiling of the Thangka. Soon it would be carried in procession by huindreds of Monks to a site just opposite the Monastery and placed on a huge wooden frame where it would be hoisted to reveal its full 50x50m image of the Buddha. Along the mountain paths leading there, hundreds of smoldering piles of Autumn leaves laced with incense by passing pilgrims released clouds of sweet smelling smoke giving a solemn and holy atmosphere to everything. As dawn broke, the Thangka was unveiled to roars of approval from the ever increasing crowds. The Shoton Festival had begun and a growing carnival element added warmth to the cold morning and a secular face to an otherwise sacred event. It was warmer now and people were erecting shade shelters and preparing picnic food. We purchased a plate each and joined a local family dressed in traditional Tibetan style. Mother, Father and Granny, all twirling prayer Wheels in one hand and wheelding chop sticks in the other while their twin boys (about 4) conducted mid air battles with their blow up Batman dolls. It was crazy. We had arrived at Drepung by taxi well before dawn and now, in the warm afternoon sun we walked the several km back along the Beijing Road to Lhasa with our new friends. Tired but happy.

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